STEP 1: Measure and mark the door.
Determine where you want to install the deadbolt. A deadbolt lock is typically installed 6 or 12 inches above the key lock (roughly 44 inches from the bottom of the door). Using the tape measure, determine an appropriate spot and mark it on the edge of the door (the part through which the bolt is going to extend). Now break out your speed square and pencil a straight line at the mark point; it should extend all the way across the door’s side.
Next, again using the speed square, continue that line onto the front and back sides of the door for 6 inches or so. You should end up with a single line that runs continuously, at uniform height, around the far side of the door.
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STEP 2: Use a hole saw to drill cleanly through the door.
Before you start drilling holes, check the manufacturer’s instructions to make sure you have all of the lock’s required parts (including the keys!), and pull out the template that was included with the package. Mount the template on the door according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The steps the follow describe the basic procedure, but always defer to the measurements on the template and any instructions specific to the deadbolt you purchased.
On each side of the door, mark the point 2⅜ inches or 2¾ inches from the edge (this measurement depends on the length of the latch bolt; for specifics, refer to the detailed template provided by the lock manufacturer). Meanwhile, on the edge of the door, mark the midpoint. The three marks you’ve made indicate where you’re going to drill.
First up is the hole for the lock cylinder. Having attached the 2⅛-inch hole saw to your drill, address the mark on the front of door. Rather than drill all the way through, go about an inch deep, then move over and drill through the other side. You should end up with a clean, precise hole.
Then, using the 1-inch spade bit, drill through the marked midpoint on the edge of the door, continuing until this hole meets up with the larger hole for the cylinder.
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STEP 3: Chisel and install the faceplate.
Line up the faceplate on the door’s edge, matching the hole in the plate with the hole you just drilled. Holding the plate in position, trace around it with your pencil, marking its silhouette.
Use a 1-inch chisel to create a ⅛-inch-deep mortise within the tracing. The faceplate and bolt are likely attached, so you will install both simultaneously.
After confirming that the bolt is right-side up, slide the bolt through the latch hole, bringing the faceplate flush with the edge of the door (assuming you’ve mortised correctly). Secure the plate with the mounting screws provided before moving on to the key cylinder. When sliding the cylinder into place through the hole on the face of the door, be sure to fit the cylinder’s tailpiece through the corresponding holes on the bolt.
Once it’s correctly positioned, screw the cylinder onto the door. Then repeat on the other side with the other section of the cylinder: Slide it into the door, join it to the bolt, then screw it in.
STEP 4: Drill the bolt hole and install the strike plate.
After locking and unlocking the mechanism a few times to test its functionality, mark the end of the bolt with a felt-tip pen, lipstick, crayon, or anything you have handy that will transfer a mark from the bolt to the jamb. Close the door and activate the bolt, pressing hard enough to transfer the pen markings to the door jamb.
The marks on the jamb indicate where the bolt hits. Using the 1-inch spade bit, drill a hole to accept the bolt. Now look over the unused lock parts you have left; the strike plate should be among the last remaining. Fit it over the hole, then trace around it with your pencil. As you did for the faceplate in Step 3, chisel out a ⅛-inch-deep mortise.
When you’re finished, set the strike plate into the mortise, making sure it sits flush with the jamb, then secure it in place with screws.
Test the door to ensure that it’s working properly. Assuming it is, you can now rest easier knowing that the average burglar would have a much, much harder time gaining entry to your most valuable investment—your home.
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Final Thoughts
If you don’t have deadbolt locks on all of the exterior doors of your home, you’re tempting fate. An experienced burglar can easily defeat even the highest quality spring lock mechanisms on the market. By carefully following these step-by-step instructions, you can complete a deadbolt lock installation on all of your exterior doors and improve your home’s security without having to invest a lot of time or money.
FAQs About Deadbolt Installation
If you’re trying to figure out what type of deadbolt to install, or if you’re thinking about installing a deadbolt on an interior door in a property you’re planning to rent out, read on for answers.
Q. Can you install a deadbolt on an interior door?
It is possible to install a deadbolt on an interior door. You’ll follow the same process that you would for an exterior door. Just keep in mind that most interior doors, especially hollow-core doors, are not as strong as exterior doors and therefore do not offer the same level of security.
Q. Are one-sided deadbolts secure?
One-sided, or single cylinder, deadbolts are just as secure as double cylinder deadbolts, with a few exceptions. For instance, if the deadbolt is in close proximity to a window, as is the case with an entry door with sidelights, or a kitchen door near a window, a burglar could defeat the single cylinder lock by breaking the glass, reaching through the broken pane, and unlocking the deadbolt. For doors with nearby windows, it’s best to use a double-sided, or double cylinder, deadbolt.
Q. How much does it cost to have someone install a deadbolt?
It costs between $40 and $75 to install a deadbolt lock, plus the cost of the lock itself, depending on the type of deadbolt, according to HomeAdvisor.
